Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen: Bold Cooking from Seattle's Anchovies & Olives, How to Cook A Wolf, Staple & Fancy Mercantile, and Tavol?ta

Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen\ \ By Ethan Stowell \ Ten Speed Press\ Copyright © 2010 Ethan Stowell\ All right reserved.\ ISBN: 9781580088183 \ \ \ Introduction\  \ Okay, this is my ideal dinner. There are two of you—cozy, but not alone. Laughter and music float around you, as does the muted percussion of silver on porcelain. There’s that soft light that makes everyone look better and a bottle of wine on the table. It doesn’t have to be pricey, just good. Out come a series of plates, not too small, not too big, but shareable. I’m not talking about doling out little bits onto dainty saucers—more like a bowl of handmade pasta set down between you with two forks sticking out of the steam. Or maybe it’s an impeccably fresh crudo, the ocean flavors clean and bright, that preps you for the grilled zucchini salad, or maybe a tangle of white beans and grilled shrimp. What follows is a perfectly roasted quail or fresh branzino you unapologetically suck off the bones. \  \ The goal is a series of tastes. Each of you gets to try a little bit of everything, eating just enough of each dish so you feel sated, but not so much that it dulls your enthusiasm for the next dish issuing from the kitchen, whether that’s a soft-boiled egg with anchovy mayonnaise or beef carpaccio or maybe some orecchiette with grilled octopus and Taggiasca olives. This is the way I cook in my restaurants, and this is the way I eat. This is the way I hope you will eat, too. \  \ When I opened each of my Seattle restaurants, I tried for places that were sexy without being slick; I wanted intimate spaces that glow with soft wood and copper, or that gather strangers at a thick communal table, la tavolàta. Overall, I wanted to reinforce the idea that food shouldn’t be formal or fussy, just focused. And, more than that, that eating is an art more walk-up than doorman, more warehouse than gallery. It’s got to be good, but it’s also got to be fun. \  \ You’ll find very few lengthy ingredient lists inside this book, no foams or caul-fat wrappers or four-page spreads. You will find recipes meant to be both modern and seductive, every recipe designed for a shareable meal that would be at place at my ideal dinner table. I’d like you to think just as much about the method as the meals, and make different choices about not only what you eat, but how you eat. Instead of doubling the recipes for bigger parties and families, I’d like you to consider adding another dish or two instead, allowing each of your guests even more delectable forkfuls, scoops, nibbles, and tastes. There is joy and abundance inherent in thoughtful food done right—you don’t need to douse it with truffle oil to make food special. Incredible, pristine ingredients suffer from being overly dolled up, but if there were no magic in how we put ingredients together, then I’d be out of a job. Let’s get back not to the food we used to eat—this isn’t nonna’s Italian—but to a more time-tested philosophy of how we eat, allowing us to create and share food at its best, eating the way we were meant to, with each other. \  \ It was during my first stint in a restaurant kitchen—there among the misfits and mad geniuses, most of them unfit for human company and therefore well suited to restaurant hours—that I felt, for the first time, like I was truly among my people. I worked my way up the line, tasting and learning along the way from people with incredible skills and artistry. In those first jobs I did very precise French cooking, the type of cooking that I, and many others, thought to be the height of culinary artistry. I’m still glad for those years; they taught me incredible focus and important skills in prep and plating. But it was with Italian-inflected cuisine that I felt the same jolt that I did during my first restaurant job. I fell in love, not only with the food itself—fresh, rustic—but also with the philosophy behind the food. Everything seemed meant to share, meant to inspire joy and fun. It was food that was meant to feed the spirit as much as the body. \  \ And that is how I shape my idea of how a meal should go. The arc of the meal should build in terms of weight, body, flavor, and texture instead of building up the portion size. That is why you won’t find the recipes in this book organized according to a traditional layout: appetizers, pastas, entrées, and desserts. In place of that traditional framework, the book organizes recipes into broad categories so that you can customize the dishes and build the flavor in your own perfect meal. Along with the arc of flavor, I recommend employing a little common sense; if you are serving a heavier or more elaborate meat dish, for example, don’t preface it with three courses. You want people to feel happy and satisfied, not stuffed.\  \ Just like a dinner guest, I want you to read this book and feel happy and satisfied, inspired but not overwhelmed. Like you, I love cookbooks; I own more than a few myself. For years, after every shift, I pored through recipes, a certain few cookbooks at my bedside. It’s that cookbook—the one you read at night like a novel, the one that inspires you but doesn’t take itself too seriously—that I endeavored to write for you. I consider it a privilege to make food for people, and I make an effort to do it with enthusiasm and imagination every time I step into the kitchen. If you take that attitude with you into your own kitchen (and maybe this book, too), it’s pretty hard to go wrong. \  \  \ A Note on Ingredients\  \ The recipes in this book are straightforward and depend not only on technique but also on using the very best ingredients you can find and afford. If you are too tight on time to make your own pasta or are making a dish that calls for dried, go to an Italian grocery that sells and imports artisanal brands. While you are there, buy the best extra-virgin olive oil you can find—you’ll use it with abandon when you prepare these recipes. \  \ Use only kosher salt, unless a finishing salt such as fleur de sel is specified. Grind your pepper fresh from the mill.\  \ If your tap water isn’t perfect, use springwater for the recipes; this is especially important for preparing soups.\  \ Make sure your eggs are fresh and preferably buy them from the farmers’ market; likewise with your fruits and vegetables. You’ll be delighted by the results if you let the seasons and availability guide your choices. \  \  \ Nibbles and Bits\  \ Mixing and matching dishes from this section is a wonderful way to eat, whether it’s two of you or six or eight. Creating a meal out of these plates lets you use smaller amounts of ingredients and gives your guests or family small flavor bursts. You probably don’t want to eat a whole plate of crudo, but sharing the Spot Prawn Crudo, nibbling on marinated baby vegetables, or having a bite or two of a Soft-Shell Crab Bruschetta—I don’t know anyone who would turn down starting, or doing—a meal this way. \  \ The crudos, simply Italian for “raw,” honor the ingredients by showcasing their inherent taste and texture. Whether it’s beef or escolar, I like to slice it in such a way that it has a little bite to it. To me, there is something critical that is lost when you slice all raw ingredients paper-thin; a large part of the enjoyment comes from the feel of the meat or fish on your tongue, between your teeth. Especially because of the wealth of incredible fish and seafood in Seattle, crudos are becoming increasingly popular. Diners also realize that crudos make simple and elegant starters, and that the preparation speaks to the respect the cook has for the ingredients on the plate. Think of the recipes that follow as guidelines; as you get more comfortable, you will know that you can swap out spot prawns for swordfish and create a dish with a totally new taste and texture. Use different oils, fruits, and chiles to bring out the fish’s best characteristics without covering up anything.\  \ As much as I love crudos, I would never say no to a paper cone of fried clams with a side of aioli for dipping. They’re in here, the aioli brightened up with sorrel, as are Fried Artichokes Pangratatto and Crispy Young Favas, too. I have no truck with those snobby chefs who think that a fryer has no place in the modern kitchen or think it’s trashy. People like fried things. It’s a good day when you get past worrying about your reputation and start prioritizing making food people love, and that includes fresh bowls of pasta and fried oysters, too. If you’re worried about being judged for making that kind of comfort food as a chef, then you got into the biz for the wrong reason. Chefs should cook for the same reason you do—because you enjoy making beautiful food for people. \ \ Continues... \ \ \ \ Excerpted from Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen by Ethan Stowell Copyright © 2010 by Ethan Stowell. Excerpted by permission.\ All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.\ Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site. \ \

ix Acknowledgments1 Introduction3 A Note on Ingredients Nibbles and Bits 8 Baked Stellar Bay Kusshi Oysters with Garlic Breadcrumbs and Oregano10 Bruschetta with Smashed Chickpeas and Grilled Lamb’s Tongue11 Crispy Young Favas with Green Garlic Mayonnaise13 Beef Carpaccio with Preserved Pecorino Sardoand Arugula14 Carne Cruda with Anchovy and Garlic18 Fried Artichokes Pangratatto21 Fried Ipswich Clams with Sorrel Aioli 23 Fun with Geoduck24 Geoduck Crudo with Fennel and Radish 24 Geoduck Scramble with Crème Fraîche25 Manila Clams on the Half Shell with Fennel,Lemon, and Chiles 26 Sardine Crudo with Celery Hearts, Pine Nuts,and Lemon28 Marinated Octopus 29 Pickled Vegetables31 Sea Bass Crudo with Vanilla Oil, English Peas,and Mint 32 Soft-Shell Crab Bruschetta with Spring Garlic Aioli32 Spot Prawn Crudo with Chile and Mint34 Frittata with Morels and Savory35 Bruschetta with Fresh Ricotta and Pine NutSalsa Verde37 Soft-Boiled Eggs with Anchovy Mayonnaise38 Shigoku Oysters on the Half Shell withAccompaniments 39 Uni Spoons  The Measure of a Cook: Soups  42 Soups with Artichokes42 Essence of Artichoke Soup42 Farro and Artichoke Soup44 Mediterranean Mussel and Chickpea Soup withFennel and Lemon46 Clam Brodetto47 Parmesan Brodo 48 Oxtail Soup with Farro and Root Vegetables51 Farmers’ Market Soup52 English Pea Soup with Poached Duck Egg53 Kabocha and Porcini Soup54 Corn and Chanterelle Soup56 Heirloom Tomato Soup with Garlic Croutons57 Sorrel and Yogurt Soup Starches to Grow On: Gnocchi, Polenta, Risotto, and Farrotto  60 Basic Potato Gnocchi63 Gnocchi with Morels and Fried Duck Egg64 Ricotta Gnocchi with Beef Short Rib Ragu66 Polenta Master Recipes66 Soft Polenta66 Firm Polenta68 Sautéed Chicken Livers with Mushrooms andOnions on Soft Polenta69 Grilled Polenta with Heirloom Tomatoes andPounded Anchovy Sauce70 Sautéed Polenta with Hedgehog Mushroomsand Aged Provolone71 A Trio of Spring Risottos 71 Spring Garlic Risotto72 Ramp Risotto with Shaved Porcini73 Artichoke Risotto74 Clam Risotto with Lemon76 Butternut Squash Risotto with Hazelnut Oil77 Farrotto with English Peas and Morels79 Duck Leg Farrotto with Pearl Onions andBloomsdale Spinach Wheat’s Highest Calling: Pasta 84 Pasta Master Recipes84  Egg Pasta84  Semolina Pasta89 Braised Rabbit Paws with Radiatore90 Linguine with Shrimp91 Cavatelli with Cuttlefish, Spring Onion, and Lemon 92 Fava Bean Agnolotti with Snails and Herbed Butter95 Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles, and Mint96 Tagliarini with Totten Virginica Oysters, Prosecco,Chives, and Cream 97 Maloreddus with Squid, Tomato Sauce, and Lemon98 Spaghetti with Garlic, Chile, and Sea Urchin100 Trofie with Nettle Pesto102 Pappardelle with Tomato Sauce and MarinatedPecorino Sardo103 Bigoli with Grilled Sardines and Fennel104 Duck Egg Ravioli with Ricotta and Swiss Chard105 Switch-Hitting Clams with Ramps106 Cannelloni with Braised Pork Cheeks andSweet Cicely  Something Foraged, Something Green: Salads, Vegetables, and Sides  110 Baby Beet Salad with Fresh Ricotta111 Endive Salad with Creamy Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette 112 Seared Rabbit Loin with Frisée and Pancetta115 Lentils with Pancetta116 Fried Cauliflower with Ham Hock119 Lobster Mushrooms with Preserved Garlic, Parsley, and Oregano120 Miner’s Lettuce, Fava Beans, English Peas, and Spring Garlic with White Balsamic Vinaigrette121 Shaved Artichoke and Wild Watercress Salad122 Blood Orange Salad with Shallot andTaggiasca Olives 125 Rapini with Garlic, Chile, and Lemon126 Delicata Squash with Chestnut Honey127 Puntarelle with Anchovy, Garlic, and Parsley Dressing128 Pickled Mackerel Salad with Watercress, Radish,and Pistachio131 Roasted Fingerling Potatoes and Artichokes with Garlic and Thyme 132 Company Alligator Pear 135 Panzanella with Crispy Pig’s Ear137 Potato and Asparagus Salad with Home-Cured Bacon and Egg138 Thumbelina Carrots with Orange and Mint140 Pheromone Salad (Shaved Porcini Salad)141 Swiss Chard with Pine Nuts and Golden Raisins Beasties of the Land . . .  144 Braised Pork Jowls with the Maligned Mélange 146 Home-Cured Bacon148 Lamb Chops with Finger Favas149 Venison Loin with Cipollini Agrodolce150 Veal Sweetbreads with Parsley, Capers, and Lemon152 Seared Duck Breast with Sugared Figs and Arugula153 Braised Veal Cheeks with Grilled Ramps and Porcini155 Skillet-Roasted Rabbit with Pancetta-Basted Fingerlings156 Roast Quail Stuffed with Pancetta, Lacinato Kale, and Sage158 Pan-Roasted Squab with Spring Garlic Compote159 Party Meats159  Party Tripe on Soft Polenta160  Zatar-Rubbed Leg of Goat with Fresh Chickpeas, Spring Onion, and Sorrel162  Grilled T-Bone with Garlic, Lemon, and Controne Beans163  Italian “Tacos” . . . and Sea 167 Grilled Sardines with Baby Fennel, Capers, and Taggiasca Olives168 Mob-Hit Squid170 Fluke with Radish and Citrus Relish 171 Ode to the Northwest (with a Nod to Cincinnati)172 Roasted Skate Wing with Brown Butter and Potatoes 174 Black Bass with Thyme, Lemon, and Garlic175 Poached Black Bass with Spring Garlic and Mint 177 Seared Scallops with Chanterelles and Parsnip and Pear Purée178 Steamed Clams with Guanciale and Sorrel 179 Prosciutto-Wrapped Soft-Shell Crab Cigars with Shaved Radish and Arugula Salad 181 Grilled Mackerel with Crispy Potatoes and Caperand Preserved Lemon Sauce Cheese for the Civilized and Desserts for the Rest of You 184 Goat Cheese with Chestnut Honey andHazelnut Dust 185 Ginepro with Gin-Soaked Pear 186 La Tur with Oven-Roasted Tomato Petals 189 Lemon Verbena Panna Cotta with Poached Peaches190 Robiola with Gooseberry Compote 191 Cacio Faenum with Baked Apricot and Almond Purée 192 Rhubarb Soup with Prosecco193 Roasted Figs with Chocolate-Espresso Ganache 194 Chocolate Ice Cream195 Toasted Walnut Ice Cream196 Pear–Star Anise Ice Cream197 Melon Sorbet199 Campari–Blood Orange Sorbet200 Blueberry-Basil Sorbet201 Espresso Granita with Grappa Cream202 Zabaglione with Mixed Berries203 Cardamom Sablés 204 Pie Cookies205 Pine Nut Crumbles206 Almond Cake with Bay-Poached Queen Anne Cherries208 Chocolate Pumpkin Tart Building Blocks: Condiments, Sauces, and Staples  216 Basic Tomato Sauce217 Mayonnaise217 Preserved Garlic218 Preserved Lemons218 Preserved Pecorino Sardo219 Salsa Verde220 Garlic Breadcrumbs220 Basic Chickpeas

\ Publishers WeeklyThe title's "new" claim is apt; this is no red-sauce cookbook. The proprietor of three popular, ingredient-driven, Italian-inspired Seattle restaurants presents a collection of recipes rich with flavor and often featuring intriguing taste combinations. Cavatelli with cuttlefish, spring onion, and lemon has a hit of spice from chili flakes, and a roast quail is stuffed with pancetta, lacinato kale, and sage. As with any good chef-written book, readers will find gems of kitchen wisdom--like which parts of watercress to use in a salad and how to prepare beef to make carne cruda with the perfect texture--casually sprinkled throughout. A humorous chapter on cheese and desserts includes such intriguing presentations as La Tur with oven-roasted tomato; lemon verbena panna cotta with poached peaches; and roasted figs with chocolate-espresso ganache. Like the other recipes in the book, these showcase fresh ingredients and have a decidedly modern feel. (Oct.)\ \