How to Use This Guide 6Introducing Athens and Mainland GreeceDiscovering Greece 10Putting Greece on the Map 12A Portrait of Mainland Greece 14The History of Greece 24Athens and Mainland Greece through the Year 44Ancient GreeceGods, Goddesses and Heroes 52The Trojan War 54Greek Writers and Philosophers 56Temple Architecture 58Vases and Vase Painting 60Athens Area by AreaAthens at a Glance 64Central Athens North 66Central Athens South 82Shopping in Athens 114Entertainment in Athens 118Athens Street Finder 122Mainland Greece Area by AreaMainland Greece at a Glance 138Around Athens 140The Peloponnese 158Central and Western Greece 202Northern Greece 232Travellers' NeedsWhere to Stay 260Where to Eat 276Shopping in Greece 296Specialist Holidays and Outdoor Activities 298Survival GuidePractical Information 304Travel Information 314General Index 328Phrase Book 348