How to Use this Guide 6Introducing St PetersburgFour Great Days in St Petersburg 10Putting St Petersburg on the Map 12The History of St Petersburg 16St Petersburg at a Glance 32St Petersburg through the Year 50St Petersburg Area by AreaVasilevskiy Island 56Petrogradskaya 64Palace Embankment 74Gostinyy Dvor 96Sennaya Ploshchad 114Further Afield 124Three Guided Walks 132Beyond St Petersburg 140Travellers' NeedsWhere to Stay 168Restaurants and Cafes 178Shops and Markets 194Entertainment in St Petersburg 200Survival GuidePractical Information 208Getting to St Petersburg 218Getting Around St Petersburg 221St Petersburg Street Finder 230General Index 246Acknowledgments 258Phrase Book and Transliteration 260