My First Travels in North America
One of the most adventurous travel writers of the 19th century recounts her journeys through Canada and the United States. Drawing from letters to her sister, Bird passionately details the sight of wigwams on Prince Edward Island and the romantic falls of Lorette in Quebec — plus dark encounters with cholera, slavery, and storms at sea.
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One of the 19th century's most adventurous travel writers offers vivid accounts of her adventurous journeys through Canada and the United States, from scenic vistas to dark encounters with cholera and slavery.
Introduction ixChapter I 1Prefatory and explanatoryThe voyage outThe sentimentalThe actualThe obliviousThe medleyPractical jokingAn unwelcome companionAmerican patriotismThe first viewThe departureChapter II 11An inhospitable receptionHalifax and the Blue NosesThe heatDisappointed expectationsThe great departedWhat the Blue Noses might beWhat the coach was notNova Scotia and its capabilitiesThe roads and their annoyancesA tea dinnerA night journey and a Highland cabinA nautical catastropheA joyful reunionChapter III 28Popular ignoranceThe garden islandSummer and winter contrastedA wooden capitalIsland politics, and their consequencesGossip"Blowin-tim"Religion and the clergyThe servant nuisanceColonial societyAn evening partyAn island premierAgrarian outrageA visit to the IndiansThe pipe of peaceAn Indian coquetteCountry hospitalityA missionaryA novel mode of lobster-fishingUncivilised lifeFar away in the woodsStarvation and dishonestyAn old Highlander and a Highland welcomeHopes for the futureChapter IV 46From St. George's Cross to the Stars and StripesUnpunctualityIncompetenceA wretched nightColonial curiosityThe fashionsA night in a buffalo robeA stage journeyA queer characterPoliticsChemistryMathematicsRotten bridgesA midnight arrivalColonial ignoranceYankee conceitWhat ten-horse power chaps can doThe pestilenceThe city on the rockNew BrunswickSteamboat peculiaritiesGoing ahead in the eating lineA stormStepping ashoreChapter V 70First experiences of American freedomThe "striped pig" and "Dusty Ben"A country mouseWhat the cars are likeBeauties of New EnglandThe land of applesA Mammoth hotelThe rusty inkstand exiledEloquent eyesAlone in a crowdChapter VI 81A suspected billA friend in needAll aboard for the Western carsThe wings of the windAmerican politenessA loquacious conductorThree minutes for refreshmentsA conversation on politicsA confessionThe emigrant carBeauties of die woodsA forest on fireDangers of the carsThe Queen City of the WestChapter VII 90The Queen City continuedIts beautiesIts inhabitants, human and equineAn American churchWhere chairs and bedsteads come fromPigs and porkA peep into KentuckyPopular opinions respecting slaveryThe curse of AmericaChapter VIII 103The hickory stickChawing up ruinsA forest sceneA curious questionerHard and soft shellsDangers of a ferryThe western prairiesNocturnal detentionThe Wild West and the Father of RiversBreakfast in a shedWhat is an alligator?Physiognomy, and its usesThe ladies' parlourA Chicago hotel, its inmates and its horrorsA water-drinking peopleThe Prairie CityProgress of the WestChapter IX 123A vexatious incidentJohn Bull enragedWoman's rightsAlligators become bossesA popular hostMilitary displayA mirth-provoking gunGrave reminiscencesAttractions of the fairPast and presentA floating palaceBlack companionsA black babyExternals of BuffaloThe flag of EnglandChapter X 141The Place of CouncilIts progress and its peopleEnglish hearts"Sebastopol is taken"Squibs and crackersA ship on her beam-endsSelfishnessA mongrel cityA Scot-Constancy rewardedMonetary difficultiesDetention on a bridgeA Canadian homesteadLife in the clearingsThe bush on fireA word on farmingThe "be" and its produceEccentricities of Mr. HaldimandsA ride on a troop-horseScotch patriotismAn English churchThe servant nuisanceRichard CobdenChapter XI 168"I've seen nothing"A disappointmentIncongruitiesHotel gaieties and "doing Niagara"Irish drosky-drivers"The Hell of Waters"Beauties of NiagaraThe picnic partyThe white canoeA cold shower-bath"The Thunder of Waters"A magic word"The Whirlpool"Story of "Bloody Run"Yankee opinions of English ladiesA metamorphosisThe nigger guideA terrible situationTermination RockImpressions of NiagaraJuvenile precocityA midnight journeyStreet adventures in HamiltonChapter XII 186A scene at startingThat dear little HarryThe old lady and the raceRunning the RapidsAn asideSnow and discomfortA new countryAn extemporised ballAdventure with a madmanShooting the cataractFirst appearance of MontrealIts characteristicsQuebec in a fog"Muffins"Quebec gaietiesThe pestilenceRestlessnessSt. Louis and St. RochThe shady sideDark densExternal characteristicsLord ElginMistaking a senatorChapter XIII 215The House of CommonsCanadian gallantryThe constitutionMr. HincksThe ex-rebelParties and leadersA street-rowRepeated disappointmentsThe "habitans"Their houses and their virtuesA stationary peopleProgress and its effectsMontmorenciThe natural staircaseThe Indian summerLoretteThe old peopleBeauties of QuebecThe John MunnFear and its consequencesA gloomy journeyChapter XIV 230Concluding remarks on CanadaTerritoryClimateCapabilitiesRailways and canalsAdvantages for emigrantsNotices of emigrationGovernmentThe franchiseRevenuePopulationReligionEducationThe pressLiteratureObservations in conclusionChapter XV 251Preliminary remarks on re-entering the StatesAmericanismsA little slangLiquoring upEccentricities in dressA 'cute chap down eastConversation on eatingA Kentucky galLake ChamplainDelaval'sA noisy serenadeAlbanyBeauties of the HudsonThe Empire CityChapter XVI 261Position of New YorkExternals of the cityConveyancesMaladministrationThe storesThe hotelsCuriosities of the hospitalRagged schoolsThe bad bookMonster schoolsAmusements and oyster saloonsMonstrositiesA restaurantDwelling-housesEquipagesPalacesDressFiguresMannersEducationDomestic habitsThe ladiesThe gentlemenSocietyReceptionsAnti-English feelingAutographsThe "Buckram Englishman."Chapter XVII 294The cemeteryIts beautiesThe "Potter's Field"The graves of childrenMonumental eccentricitiesArrival of emigrantsTheir receptionPoor dwellingsThe dangerous classThe electionsThe riotsCharacteristics of the streetsJourney to BostonThe sights of BostonLongfellowCambridge universityChapter XVIII 317Origin of the ConstitutionThe ExecutiveCongressLocal LegislaturesThe army and navyJusticeSlaveryPolitical corruptionThe foreign elementAbsence of principleAssociationsThe Know-nothingsThe Press and its powerReligionThe ChurchThe ClergyChapter XIX 338General remarks continuedThe common schoolsTheir defectDifficultiesManagement of the schoolsThe free academyRailwaysTelegraphsPovertyLiteratureAdvantages for emigrantsDifficulties of emigrantsPeace or warConcluding observationsChapter XX 352The AmericaA gloomy departureAn ugly nightMorning at HalifaxOur new passengersBabiesCaptain LeitchA day at seaClippers and steamersA stormAn Atlantic moonlightUnpleasant sensationsA galeInkermannConclusion
