New York Cookbook: From Pelham Bay to Park Avenue, Firehouses to Four-Star Restaurants
NIBBLES AND NOSHES\ Falafel, fritters, and the Four Seasons' Salmon Rillettes. Grandma Dora's Chopped Liver and Lupe's savory Empanadillas. Steamed pork dumplings, a caviar primer, smart cocktails by the borough. SOUP AND BREAD Mai Loan Bass' Vietnamese Sweet and Sour Soup and Spring Street Prosciutto Bread. Lord & Taylor's Scotch Broth and West Indian Coco Bread. Plus Eli's Orwasher's, and the return of the neighborhood bakery. MAIN STREET MEATS The "21" Club Burger. The New Your steak....
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NIBBLES AND NOSHES Falafel, fritters, and the Four Seasons' Salmon Rillettes. Grandma Dora's Chopped Liver and Lupe's savory Empanadillas. Steamed pork dumplings, a caviar primer, smart cocktails by the borough. SOUP AND BREAD Mai Loan Bass' Vietnamese Sweet and Sour Soup and Spring Street Prosciutto Bread. Lord & Taylor's Scotch Broth and West Indian Coco Bread. Plus Eli's Orwasher's, and the return of the neighborhood bakery. MAIN STREET MEATS The "21" Club Burger. The New Your steak. June Bobb's Garlic Pork, and Leg of Lamb with Oregano Potatoes. And oh, the brisket! CHICKEN TOWN Andre Soltner roasts it, Laurie Colwin bakes it, Mrs. Pearl Colwin cacciatories it, Yvonne "Lola" Bell fries it, Mrs. Hathansel paprikashes it, Allan Vernon jerks it, Kaneeze Fatima tandooris it, and Carmen Luisa Reyes turns hers into soulful Arroz con Pollo. SEAFOOD Grand Central Oyster Bar's classic Oyster Pan Roast. The genius of Gilbert Le Coze and his Shellfish Stew. Anne Rosenweig's signature Lobster Club Sandwich and Ed Bradley's spicy Shrimp Creole (takes less than 60 minutes). VEGETABLE SOPHISTICATION Edna Lewis' Greens and Marvelous Marrakesh Carrots. Abyssinian Baptist Church's Slow Cooked Green Beans and Union Square Caf,'s Mashed Turnips with Crispy Shallots. THE WAYS TO LOVE PASTA From lasagne to pastisio, pierogi to wonton, pad Thai to cold sesame noodles. With Puttanesca a la Andy's Colonial Tavern, Turkey Day Spaghetti Carbonara, and Horn & Hardart's Baked Macaroni and Cheese. 63 SPECTACULAR ENDINGS Sally Deitz's Outrageous Chocolate Cake. Junior's Cheesecake, Lindy's Cheesecake. That famous Carrot Top Cake. Le Cirque's CrSme Brulee and Greek Diner Banana Cream Pie, the pie that reachesthe sky. PLUS hundreds of photographs, walking tours, shopping tips, cooking hints, feature stories, anecdotes, and where-to-find-its throughout. CITYMEALS-ON-WHEELS In the true spirit of a community cookbook, a portion of the royalties earned by this book are donated to CityMeals-on-Wheels. MOLLY O'NEILL The Damon Runyon of the New York food world, Molly O'Neill is food columnist for The New York Times Magazine. She spend five years on THE NEW YORK COOKBOOK.
\ Confessional Chili\ David Durk, whose career in law enforcement has spanned 23 years and included a stint as the partner of the famous Frank Serpico, purports to have served this atomic chili to tight-lipped prisoners and potential informers, many of whom he claims "would never talk to a New York Cop." How soon after consumption did they start gabbing? "Immediately," he laughs.\ 2 to 3 large onions, chopped\ 4 large garlic cloves, minced\ 3 to 4 small Indian green chiles, chopped, or 4 jalapeno chiles, chopped (including the seeds), or 3 tablespoons extra-hot ground dried chiles\ 3 tablespoons peanut oil\ 3 pounds lean chopped sirloin\ Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste\ 1 tablespoon ground coriander\ 3 tablespoons ground cumin\ 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves\ 1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano\ 2 cans (28 ounces each) imported Italian whole plum tomatoes\ 4 bay leaves\ 2 cans (16 ounces each) pinto beans, rinsed and drained\ 1 bunch cilantro or Italian (flat-leaf) parsley, rinsed and chopped.\ 1. In a large heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat, sautS the onions, garlic, and chiles in the oil until the onions are translucent, 5 minutes.\ 2. Crumble the chopped sirloin over the top of the vegetables. Season with salt and pepper; stir in the coriander, cumin, thyme, and oregano. Cover and cook until the meat is cooked through, about 7 minutes.\ 3. Pour the tomatoes into a small bowl and coarsely crush with your hands. Pour the tomatoes and juice on top of the chili mixture. Stir in the bay leaves. Cover or leave uncovered, depending on the consistency you prefer (a covered pot with yield a thicker chile), and simmer until the flavors are well married, about 30 minutes.\ 4. Stir in the pinto beans and simmer, covered, for 15 minutes. Stir in the cilantro and simmer for another 5 minutes. Serve at once.\ Serves 8 to 10\ Subhir's Aloo Parantha\ Subhir Seth learned to make this bread in the Khyber Pass on the border of West Afghanistan and North Pakistan. He recommends serving it as a first course with cumin-flavored yogurt for dipping.\ BREAD\ 3 ½ cups whole wheat flour\ 1 tablespoon vegetable oil\ ½ teaspoon salt\ STUFFING\ 1 pound potatoes\ 1/3 cup minced fresh cilantro\ teaspoon gound cumin\ 1 tablespoon minced fresh ginger\ teaspoon salt\ COOKING\ About 1 cup vegetable oil\ 1. To make the bread: Combine the flour, vegetable oil, salt, and 1 ½ cups water in a large bowl. Knead to make a smooth dough, about 5 minutes. Divide the dough into 10 equal balls. Place the dough on a tray and set aside to rest in a cool place while you make the stuffing.\ 2. To make the stuffing: Boil the potatoes in salted water until soft, 30 minutes. Drain and allow to cool slightly.\ 3. Peel the potatoes, then rice or mash them by hand in a bowl. Stir in the cilantro, chile, cumin, ginger, and salt. Divide the mixture into 10 equal balls.\ 4. Use your finger to make a deep indentation in each of the dough balls. Place some of the stuffing in each and seal the dough over the stuffing. On a lightly floured board, use a rolling pin to gently flatten each stuffed dough into an 8-inch disk.\ 5. To cook: Place a griddle or cast-iron skillet over medium heat and coat with 1 tablespoon of the oil. When the oil is hot, place 1 bread in the pan and fry for 1 minute on each side. Sprinkle the bread with additional oil and fry for another minute on each side. Continue frying the breads one at a time, with additional oil. Srve immediately.\ Makes 10 paranthas
LOOKING FOR THE HEART OF THE CITY NIBBLES, NOSHES, AND APPETIZING Meal Starters, coffee breaks, street food-New York's best little bites. Falafel, Jamaican beef patties, hummus, clam fritters, savory chicken wings, and Jarlsberg squares. Noshing with Lou Singer Nosh Stops A Taste of the Tropics On Being a Hostess with the Leastest Lox, Stock, and Bagels To Catch a Proper Nova Smart Cocktails by the Borough and Beyond Many-Faced Quiche Stone Fence The Caviarteria and What It Knows New York's Artisan Springs SOUPS FOR SIPPING, SLURPING, SUPPER New York bowlfuls. Chicken soup in all its ethnic varieties. Scotch broth, hot and sour soup, and Hungarian szekely. Borscht, bisque, green minestrone, white bean soup, and snert. Chicken Soup: A New York Panacea Matzoh Bowl I The Soup Man of 55th Street Manhattan Clam Chowder TO BAKE AN HONEST LOAF Breads with crust and breads with heft. Fresh muffins, bagels, babka, beer bread, roti, parantha, and focaccia. The Brick Oven Brotherhood Where to Buy a Good Loaf Stalking the Perfect Pizza Pie Pizza Stops To Make a Soft Prezel A Bagel Is a Bagel . . . FOOD WALKS Food on foot. Tours of New York's ethnic neighborhoods and food markets. Where to stop and why. THE GREENING OF NEW YORK New York cooks offer up Southern-style and Chinese-style greens, Caribbean callaloo, Marrakesh carrots, and artichokes with a Turkish twist. Plus baked beans, potato chips, and potato latkes. And salads. And pickles. The Greening of New York New York's Greenmarkets Produce Paradise Mrs. Beausojour's Short Guide to Caribbean Vegetables Lexicon of AsianVegetables Mickeys and Chips For Those Who Don't Know David "The Latke King," There Is Some Hope. Vegetable Wisdom Brighton Beach Memories The Caesar Salad Song and Caesar Salad Translation New York in a Pickle Wildman Looks for Dinner The Smart Cook Using Infused and Syrup-Flavored Oils A CHRONOLOGY OF SIGNIFICANT CULINARY EVENTS IN NEW YORK CITY New York has always been a happening food town. From the first coffee-houses in the 1600s to soda fountains in the 1800s to hot dogs, cafeterias, Chiclets, Tootsie Rolls, and cheesecake, New Yorkers have made their mark. NEW YORK NOODLES Spaghetti, linguine, penne, orzo-pastas dried and fresh with their sauces. Plus pierogis, wontons, polenta, grits, tabbouleh, and risotto. Pasta Plus Dumplings, Noodles, and Grains The Red Sea Mrs. Romana Raffetto of Houston Street Just a Few New York Noodles Bumper Crops in Bensonhurst Arthur Avenue Nights Salvatore ("Mr. Wab") Medici of East Harlem National Spaghetti Carbonara Day Fresh Noodles Dueling Dumplings THE MEAT OF THE MATTER Great Steaks, brisket, casseroles, cutlets, stews, and chops. Unbelievable barbecue, meatloaf every way, and a hamburger like no other. Plus shish kebab, leg of lamb, couscous, and South African bobotie. The New York Barbecue Summit New York's Best Barbecue Robert Pearson's Stick to Your Ribs The King of Jerk Deli Spoken Here In Search of New York Steak? Ask Anywhere but New York Where's the Beef? FESTIVALS Street fairs, feasts, and festivals: When and where they happen. Celebrate the year with a smorgasbord of ethnic foods. THE BIRDS Fragrant chickens, roasted, fried, and barbecued. Cambodian chicken salad, chicken has, and chicken Kiev. Five ways to stuff a turkey. Poultry fricassees, grills, and stews. To Roast a Fine Bird To Buy a Good Bird Where's the Bird To Stuff a Fine Bird Liz Smith's Fried Chicken Vernon: The King of Jerk Norah's Fried Chicken Schmaltz and Gribeness The Curator of Country Captain Church Suppers Eileen Says Everything is Peking Duckie FROM RIVER, SEA, AND THE FULTON MARKET New York's seafood favorites: Pan roasts and stews, stuffed lobster and a unique lobster club sandwich, scallop pie and shrimp with feta, plus shad roe, fillet of sole, tuna Rockefeller, and red snapper hash. A Day Dawns at Fulton Fernando Lara, Marine Muralist Shadding on the Hudson A TRIP DOWN MENU LANE New Yorkers on the town. A look at where they ate and what they ordered, from early tavern and pushcart days to Delmonico's, Luchows, and the current hot spots. A LITTLE SOMETHING SWEET Desserts . la New York include chocolate cakes, carrot cakes, and six fabulous cheesecakes. Fudgy Brownies, mammoth cookies, mile-high pies, Mexican flan, dense bread pudding, and crSme brulSe. Ebinger's Blackout Cake To Buy Fine Chocolates A Fine and Fancy Cake On Top of Carrot Cake Hill New York Cheesecake Some Very Good Bakeries Fox's U-Bet Chocolate Flavored Syrup MAIL ORDER BIBLIOGRAPHY CREDITS INDEX
