Nuts: (Artisanal Foods Series) Sweet and Savory Recipes from Diamond of California

\ \ \ \ Chapter One\ \ \ MAPLE-GLAZED WALNUTS\ \ \ These easy candied nuts make a fine addition to a cheese platter or a holiday cookie assortment. You can find maple flavoring in the spice section of most supermarkets, along with the vanilla and other extracts. For an equally tasty variation, substitute pure vanilla extract for the maple.\ 1 CUP PACKED LIGHT BROWN\ SUGAR\ 1/2 CUP GRANULATED SUGAR\ 1/2 CUP SOUR CREAM OR\ PLAIN YOGURT, DRAINED OF\ ANY EXCESS LIQUID\ 1/8 TEASPOON SALT\ 4 CUPS WALNUT HALVES\ 2 TEASPOONS MAPLE\ FLAVORING\ \ \ LINE a large baking sheet with foil or parchment paper, coat with vegetable oil spray. In a heavy, medium saucepan, mix together brown sugar, granulated sugar, sour cream, and salt. Cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until mixture is smooth and comes to a boil. Continue cooking, stirring, until mixture reaches 236° to 240° on a candy thermometer. (A small spoonful of the mixture dropped into ice water will form a soft ball when rubbed between your index finger and thumb.)\ QUICKLY stir in walnuts and maple flavoring; cook, stirring, until nuts are coated completely, 2 to 3 minutes. Working carefully, spread walnuts in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet, separating nuts with a fork. Let cool completely.\ STORE airtight at room temperature up to 1 week.\ YIELDS 4 CUPS\ \ \ CINNAMON-SPICE NUT MIX\ Make a batch of these easy candied nuts, and you'll find all kinds of ways to serve them. You can set them out by the bowlful at a party, use them to top a salad containing applesand goat cheese, or sprinkle them over ice cream. And what could be sweeter as a homemade hostess gift?\ 4 CUPS ASSORTED WHOLE NUTS\ (such as walnuts, hazelnuts, pecans,\ almonds, and macadamias)\ 2 EGG WHITES\ 1 CUP SUGAR\ 2 TEASPOONS\ GROUND CINNAMON\ 1/2 TEASPOON SALT\ 1/4 TEASPOON GROUND GINGER\ 1/8 TEASPOON GROUND ALLSPICE\ 1/8 TEASPOON GROUND CLOVES\ 1/8 TEASPOON FRESHLY\ GRATED NUTMEG\ \ \ IF using hazelnuts, preheat oven to 350°. Spread hazelnuts in a single layer on a baking sheet or pan. Bake, shaking the pan once or twice, until nuts are lightly browned and fragrant, 10 to 12 minutes. Wrap warm hazelnuts in a clean dish towel and let cool 10 minutes. With the towel, rub off as much of the papery skins as possible. Add to bowl with other assorted nuts. (You can omit this step if not using hazelnuts.)\ REDUCE oven temperature to 225°. Line a large baking sheet with foil or parchment paper; coat with vegetable oil spray.\ IN a large bowl, whisk egg whites until foamy. Add nuts, tossing to coat well.\ IN another large bowl, combine sugar, cinnamon, salt, ginger, allspice, cloves, and nutmeg. Blend well. Add nuts, tossing until evenly coated with sugar mixture.\ SPREAD nuts in a single layer on the prepared baking sheet, separating with a fork. Bake until coating is dry and crunchy, about 2 hours. Let cool.\ STORE airtight at room temperature up to 1 week.\ YIELDS 4 CUPS\ \ \ A Cup of Kindness\ Fill a coffee mug with any of the glazed nuts in this Chapter. Set the mug in the center of two pieces of transparent plastic gift wrap or floral wrap. Gather the wrap around the mug and tie it with a wire ribbon; add a gift card with a message on one side and the recipe on the back. (For extra credit, use a personalized photo mug.)\ \ \ TERIYAKI WALNUTS\ \ \ Food scientists tell us that the reason we love teriyaki flavor is that it's a perfect balance of the four basic tastes: sweet, salty, bitter, and sour. We discovered that adding a fifth—the toasted, buttery flavor of walnuts—makes teriyaki even more irresistible. Let the teri-snacking begin.\ \ \ 4 CUPS WALNUT HALVES\ 3 TABLESPOONS SESAME SEEDS\ 1/4 CUP FROZEN ORANGE JUICE\ CONCENTRATE, THAWED\ 1/4 CUP SOY SAUCE\ 2 TABLESPOONS ASIAN\ SESAME OIL\ 2 TABLESPOONS LIGHT\ BROWN SUGAR\ 2 TEASPOONS GRATED\ FRESH GINGER\ 2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED\ 1/2 TEASPOON CRUSHED\ DRIED RED CHILES\ \ \ PREHEAT oven to 350°. Line a large baking sheet with foil or parchment paper; spread walnuts in an even layer. Bake, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned and fragrant, 10 to 12 minutes. Set aside baking sheet for later; reduce oven temperature to 300°.\ IN a large frying pan over medium heat, toast sesame seeds until pale golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Scrape sesame seeds onto a plate and set aside. In the same pan, combine the orange juice concentrate, soy sauce, sesame oil, sugar, ginger, garlic, and chiles. Bring to a boil. Add walnuts and cook, stirring, until liquid has evaporated. Add sesame seeds, stirring to coat evenly.\ ON the baking sheet, spread walnut mixture in a single layer. Bake until nuts are glazed and dry, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool.\ STORE airtight at room temperature up to 1 week.\ YIELDS 4 CUPS\ \ \ SWEET-SALTY ROASTED NUTS\ \ \ There are all kinds of tricky recipes for glazed nuts that involve deep-flying. We've come up with a super-easy way to make them in the oven. The secret is the egg white, which helps the sugar and salt adhere and adds an attractive glazed finish. Serve these as a cocktail snack, or use just one kind of nut (such as pecans or walnuts) and toss in salads.\ \ \ 4 CUPS ASSORTED NUTS (such as\ walnuts, hazelnuts, pecans, almonds,\ macadamias, and pine nuts)\ 2 EGG WHITES\ 1 TABLESPOON COARSE-GRAINED\ SALT\ 1 TABLESPOON SUGAR\ \ \ IF using hazelnuts, preheat oven to 350°. Spread hazelnuts in a single layer on a baking sheet or pan. Bake, shaking the pan once or twice, until nuts are lightly browned and fragrant, 10 to 12 minutes. Wrap warm hazelnuts in a clean dish towel and let cool 10 minutes. With the towel, rub off as much of the papery skins as possible. Add to bowl with other assorted nuts. (You can omit this step if not using hazelnuts.)\ REDUCE oven temperature to 300°. Line a large baking sheet with foil or parchment paper; coat with vegetable oil spray.\ IN a large bowl, whisk egg whites until foamy. Add nuts, salt, and sugar, tossing to coat evenly. Spread nuts in a single layer on the baking sheet. Bake, stirring once or twice, until nuts are crisp and fragrant, about 20 minutes. Let cool.\ SERVE slightly warm or at room temperature. Store airtight at room temperature up to 1 week.\ YIELDS 4 CUPS\ MAHOGANY ALMONDS\ \ \ It's difficult to believe that the flavor, texture, and lustrous lacquered sheen of these nuts could be the product of just four ingredients. Well, eight, actually, if you count the star anise, Sichuan peppercorns, cinnamon, cloves, and other spices that go into the Chinese five-spice (which you can find in the spice section of most supermarkets). But who's counting? As in any really simple recipe, it's important to use the best ingredients you can find, especially when it comes to the pure maple syrup. The imitation kind will cook up sticky and flavorless.\ \ \ 2/3 CUP PURE MAPLE SYRUP\ 2 TEASPOONS CHINESE\ FIVE-SPICE\ 1 TEASPOON SALT\ 4 CUPS WHOLE ALMONDS\ \ \ PREHEAT oven to 300°. Line 2 large baking sheets with foil or parchment paper; coat with vegetable oil spray. In a large bowl, combine syrup, five-spice, and salt; stir until well blended. Add almonds, stirring to coat evenly.\ SPREAD mixture in an even layer on 1 prepared baking sheet. Bake, stirring once or twice, until nuts are glazed and deep golden brown, 50 to 60 minutes. Working quickly and carefully, immediately spread almonds on the other baking sheet, separating with a fork. Let cool completely.\ STORE airtight at room temperature up to 1 week.\ YIELDS 4 CUPS\ \ \ TURKISH TOASTED WALNUTS\ \ \ Walnuts were first cultivated in Persia and Asia Minor, and they still figure prominently in the cuisines of those regions. These wonderfully perfumed spiced nuts would be right at home there. Serve them as a snack, toss them in salads, or try them as a crunchy topping for Asian noodle dishes.\ \ \ 4 CUPS WALNUT HALVES\ 3 TABLESPOONS WALNUT OIL,\ ROASTED GARLIC WALNUT OIL,\ OR VEGETABLE OIL\ 1/2 CUP MINCED GREEN ONION\ 2 TABLESPOONS GROUND\ CUMIN\ 1 TABLESPOON GROUND\ CINNAMON\ 1 TABLESPOON SUGAR\ 1 TEASPOON SALT\ 1 CLOVE GARLIC, MINCED\ 1/2 TEASPOON GROUND ALLSPICE\ 1/2 TEASPOON FRESHLY\ GROUND BLACK PEPPER\ 1/2 TEASPOON CAYENNE PEPPER\ 1/4 CUP WATER\ \ \ PREHEAT oven to 350°. Line a large baking sheet with foil or parchment paper. Spread walnuts in an even layer. Bake, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned and fragrant, 10 to 12 minutes. Set aside baking sheet for later; reduce oven temperature to 300°.\ IN a large frying pan, warm oil over medium heat. Stir in onion, cumin, cinnamon, sugar, salt, garlic, allspice, black pepper, and cayenne. Cook, stirring, until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes.\ ADD water and bring to a boil; immediately stir in the walnuts. Cook, stirring occasionally, until all the liquid has evaporated. Spread walnuts in a single layer on the reserved baking sheet. Bake until nuts are browned and dry, 10 to 12 minutes. Let cool.\ SERVE slightly warm or at room temperature. Store airtight at room temperature up to 1 week.\ YIELDS 4 CUPS\ \ \ CHIPOTLE-HONEY NUT MIX\ \ \ If you wanted to create the perfect nibble, you'd make it salty, sweet, spicy, and nutty. In that spirit, this easy glazed nut mix is our little gift to nibblers everywhere. The chipotle chiles add just the right amount of heat, plus a hint of earthy smokiness.\ \ \ 4 CUPS ASSORTED NUTS (such as\ walnuts, hazelnuts, pecans, almonds,\ macadamias, and pine nuts)\ 1/3 CUP HONEY\ 3 TABLESPOONS SUGAR\ 3 TABLESPOONS WALNUT OIL\ OR VEGETABLE OIL\ 1 TABLESPOON MASHED\ CANNED CHIPOTLE CHILES\ IN ADOBO SAUCE\ 1 1/4 TEASPOONS SALT\ \ \ IF using hazelnuts, preheat oven to 350°. Spread hazelnuts in a single layer on a baking sheet or pan. Bake, shaking the pan once or twice, until nuts are lightly browned and fragrant, 10 to 12 minutes. Wrap warm hazelnuts in a clean dish towel and let cool 10 minutes. With the towel, rub off as much of the papery skins as possible. Add to bowl with other assorted nuts. (You can omit this step if not using hazelnuts.)\ REDUCE oven temperature to 300°. Line a large baking sheet with foil or parchment paper; coat with vegetable oil spray. In a large bowl, combine honey, sugar, oil, chiles, and salt. Add nuts, stirring to coat evenly.\ SPREAD mixture in an even layer on prepared baking sheet. Bake, stirring once or twice, until nuts are glazed and golden brown, about 30 minutes. Let cool. Break nuts apart, if needed.\ STONE airtight at room temperature up to 1 week.\ YIELDS 4 CUPS\ \ \ Chipotle Chic\ Chipotle's (chee-poht-lays) are all the rage these days. But what exactly are they? Well, for starters, their name refers to a process, rather than a botanical variety of chile. Chipotles are actually jalapeños that have been slowly dried over a smoldering fire, so that they take on a smoky flavor. They're often canned in a spicy vinegar sauce called adobo. You can find this magical stuff, sold as chipotles en adobo, in Latino markets or in the Mexican section of many supermarkets. Mash the chiles and sauce, or purée them in a blender or food processor, and you've got a rich, complex seasoning paste that adds spice, depth, and smoky flavor to sauces, marinades, dressings, soups, and salsas. And wait until you taste what chipotles do to nuts.\ \ \ Chopping Spree\ To chop nuts, use a sharp chef's knife, and remember: warm nuts chop more easily than cool ones. If you're using a food processor, pulse the motor frequently, and stir the nuts occasionally to avoid creating nut butter. Or save yourself the trouble and buy nuts that are already chopped, ground, or sliced.\ \ \ How to Pick a Nut\ If you can't judge a book by its cover, how can you tell a good nut when the shell is still on? For starters, look for an unblemished exterior, free of cracks and holes. The nut should feel heavy for its size. Give it a shake. If it rattles, throw it back—that's a sign that the meat may have dried and shriveled. Shelled nuts are an easier matter. They should be firm and not shriveled and should snap, not bend, when you break them.\ \ \     GRAPES with GORGONZOLA and PECANS\ \ \ Fruit, cheese, and nuts, all rolled into one! You can serve these elegant little bites as an hors d'oeuvre, as an appetizer, or as part of a cheese course. They're particularly appealing when arranged in a cluster and garnished with a grape or fig leaf. You can substitute any chopped toasted nut for the pecans, and if you're not partial to Gorgonzola, try a mild goat cheese.\ \ \ 2 CUPS PECAN CHIPS\ 8 OUNCES CREAM CHEESE,\ AT ROOM TEMPERATURE\ 4 OUNCES GORGONZOLA\ OR OTHER BLUE CHEESE,\ AT ROOM TEMPERATURE\ 2 TABLESPOONS WHIPPING\ CREAM, HALF-AND-HALF, OR MILK\ 1/2 POUND (about 1 1/4 cups)\ SMALL SEEDLESS RED OR\ GREEN GRAPES, RINSED\ AND DRIED WELL\ \ \ PREHEAT oven to 350°. Spread pecan chips on a baking sheet or in a shallow pan. Bake, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned and fragrant, 5 to 10 minutes. Let cool.\ IN a medium bowl, beat cream cheese, Gorgonzola, and cream with an electric mixer until smooth, 2 to 3 minutes. Completely cover each grape with about 1 teaspoon cheese mixture; repeat with remaining cheese and grapes.\ (If making in advance, refrigerate airtight up to 3 days.) Roll each grape-cheese ball in pecan chips until well coated.\ YIELDS ABOUT 48 BALLS\ \ \ TERRINE of ROQUEFORT and GRAPES\ \ (ROLAND PASSOT)\ \ \ \ Chef Roland Passot recommends serving this dense, creamy terrine as a first course accompanied with a small green salad and a slice of toasted walnut bread (such as Toasted Walnut and Olive Yeast Bread, page 212). It can also be unmolded and served as a party spread with crackers or baguette slices. If you find the flavor of Roquefort too robust, substitute a milder blue cheese.\ \ \ 2 CUPS CHOPPED WALNUTS\ 1/2 CUP SAUTERNES OR OTHER\ SWEET WHITE WINE\ 1 TABLESPOON UNFLAVORED\ GELATIN\ 4 CUPS (about 1 pound) CRUMBLED\ ROQUEFORT OR BLUE CHEESE\ 1 CUP WHIPPING CREAM\ 1/2 POUND SEEDLESS RED OR\ GREEN GRAPES, HALVED\ IF LARGE\ 1/2 CUP FINELY CHOPPED\ FRESH CHIVES\ \ \ PREHEAT oven to 350°. Generously coat a 6-cup terrine or loaf pan with vegetable oil spray and set aside. On a large baking sheet, spread walnuts in an even layer. Bake, stirring once or twice, until light golden brown and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool.\ IN a large heatproof bowl, soften gelatin in 1/4 cup of the Sauternes; let stand 1 minute. Bring a saucepan filled with 2 inches water to a boil over high heat. Place bowl with gelatin securely over the saucepan to form a double boiler. Reduce heat to medium and cook until gelatin has dissolved, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the cheese and the remaining 1/4 cup Sauternes; stir until cheese has softened and mixture is almost smooth, 3 to 5 minutes. Place bowl with cheese mixture into a larger bowl filled with ice. Let cool, stirring occasionally, until mixture is cool and begins to thicken, 15 to 20 minutes.\ IN a large bowl, beat cream with an electric mixer until stiff. Fold about one-third of whipped cream into the cheese mixture, then fold in the remaining cream until no streaks show. Fold in the walnuts, grapes, and chives. Scrape mixture into the prepared terrine; level the top with a spatula. Tap the terrine on a firm surface several times to remove air bubbles. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours or up to 2 days.\ TO loosen mixture, run a metal spatula or knife around the edge of the terrine. Unmold onto a flat plate; cut into 1/2-inch slices.\ SERVES 10 TO 12\ \ \ ENDIVE with BRANDIED CHEESE\ and WALNUTS\ \ \ The crisp texture and clean, pleasantly bitter flavor of Belgian endive work beautifully with the richness of cheese and nuts. For a fancier presentation, use a pastry bag fitted with a wide star tip to pipe the cheese mixture onto the endive leaves. Or go casual and simply serve the cheese as a spread in a crock with crackers or croutons of toasted walnut bread on the side.\ \ \ 1/2 CUP CHOPPED WALNUTS\ 1 CUP (about 4 ounces)\ CRUMBLED BLUE CHEESE\ OR GOAT CHEESE, AT ROOM\ TEMPERATURE\ 3 OUNCES CREAM CHEESE,\ AT ROOM TEMPERATURE\ 2 TEASPOONS BRANDY\ 5 MEDIUM HEADS\ (about 10 ounces total)\ BELGIAN ENDIVE\ \ \ PREHEAT oven to 350°. Spread walnuts on a baking sheet or in a shallow pan. Bake, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool slightly.\ IN a medium bowl, combine blue cheese, cream cheese, and brandy. Stir in half the walnuts.\ CUT root end from endive heads to separate leaves. (Save the endive hearts for another use; add thin slices to a green salad.) Place 1 heaping teaspoon of the cheese mixture on the base of each leaf. Top with remaining walnuts. On a serving platter, arrange leaves in concentric circles, with tips facing out.\ YIELDS ABOUT 24 PIECES\ SERVES 8 TO 10\ \ \ VARIATIONS ON A CHEESE\ BALL\ \ \ For decades it reigned supreme at cocktail parties from coast to coast: that little ball of cheese encrusted with chopped nuts and ringed with crackers. And for good reason: cheese and nuts are a natural combination, made even better by a hint of sweetness from port wine and fresh or dried fruit. In that spirit, allow us to offer a few updated variations on this classic theme:\ · At the end of a meal, serve individual plates with a small wedge of cheese, such as sweet Gorgonzola or robiola, toasted walnuts, figs, and slices of apple, pear, or persimmon.\ · Press a dab of soft, spreadable cheese—or the cheese mixture from either this recipe or Grapes with Gorgonzola and Pecans (page 30)—between the flat sides of toasted pecan or walnut halves to make miniature nut sandwich hors d'oeuvres.\ · Cut a small wheel of Brie in half horizontally. Spread the bottom half with a layer of Walnut Pesto (page 126) and replace the top half. Press warm, freshly toasted pine nuts or chopped walnuts into the top of the cheese. Let the cheese sit at room temperature for 1 to 2 hours; serve with crackers or baguette slices.\ \ \ CROSTINI with CAMBOZOLA,\ CARAMELIZED ONIONS, and WALNUTS\ \ \ The next time you're reaching for a box of crackers in the grocery store, put it back and pick up a baguette. Crostini, thin slices of bread crisped in the oven, are an easy homemade alternative to crackers; they are somehow both rustic and sophisticated—especially when you top them with sweet caramelized onions, toasted walnuts, and that creamy blend of Camembert and Gorgonzola called Cambozola.\ \ \ 1/2 CUP CHOPPED WALNUTS\ 24 SLICES BAGUETTE, CUT\ 1/4 TO 3/8 INCH THICK\ 4 1/2 TABLESPOONS EXTRA-VIRGIN\ OLIVE OIL\ 2 LARGE RED ONIONS\ (about 1 pound total),\ THINLY SLICED\ 2 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED\ FRESH SAGE\ 1 TEASPOON BALSAMIC VINEGAR\ 1/4 TEASPOON SALT\ 1/8 TEASPOON SUGAR\ FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER\ 4 OUNCES CAMBOZOLA,\ BAVARIAN BLUE, OR OTHER\ SOFT-RIPE BLUE CHEESE,\ AT ROOM TEMPERATURE\ \ \ PREHEAT oven to 350°. Spread walnuts on a baking sheet or in a shallow pan. Bake, stirring once or twice, until lightly browned and fragrant, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool.\ INCREASE oven temperature to 400°. Arrange bread slices on a baking sheet; brush tops with 3 tablespoons of the oil. Bake until lightly toasted and golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Let cool. (If making in advance, store airtight.)\ IN a large, heavy saucepan or flameproof casserole, heat the remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons oil over medium heat. Stir in onions, sage, vinegar, salt, and sugar. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are very tender and browned at the edges, 20 to 25 minutes. Season to taste with pepper. Stir in walnuts.\ SPREAD each crostini with about 1 teaspoon cheese; then mound onion-walnut mixture on top. Serve slightly warm or at room temperature.\ YIELDS 24 CROSTINI\ \ \ Excerpted from Nuts by Tina Salter with Steve Siegelman. Copyright © 2001 by Diamond of California. Excerpted by permission. All rights reserved.

FOREWORD by Betty Fussellix NUTS: A RECIPE FOR BETTER HEALTH by Gene A. Spiller, Ph.D., CNSxiii NUT DESCRIPTIONSxvi INTRODUCTION1 APPETIZERS & SALADS16 ENTRÉES58 VEGETABLES, GRAINS & PASTA100 DESSERTS130 COOKIES & CAKES160 BREADS & QUICK BREADS194 NUTS, NOTES & BASIC RECIPES214 INDEX220 CONTRIBUTORS231 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS237 APPETIZERS & SALADS MAPLE-GLAZED WALNUTS20 CINNAMON-SPICE NUT MIX21 TERIYAKI WALNUTS22 SWEET-SALTY ROASTED NUTS24 MAHOGANY ALMONDS25 TURKISH TOASTED WALNUTS26 CHIPOTLE-HONEY NUTMIX27 GRAPES with GORGONZOLA and PECANS30 TERRINE of ROQUEFORT and GRAPES by Roland Passot32 ENDIVE with BRANDIED CHEESE and WALNUTS33 CROSTINI with CAMBOZOLA, CARAMELIZED ONIONS, and WALNUTS34 BRUSCHETTA CAPRESE35 CRAB CAKES with ALMONDS and ROMESCO SAUCE36 SPICY CHICKEN-WALNUT TRIANGLES39 WALNUT-PEPERONATA WONTONS40 PAPILLOTE of FOIE GRAS and LANGOUSTINES by Hubert Keller42 ROASTED BEET SALAD with APPLE, DANDELION LEAVES, and ALMONDS by Charlie Trotter44 ASPARAGUS SALAD with SESAME-GLAZED WALNUTS by Martin Yan46 SPINACH SALAD with BACON, ALMONDS, and WARM GOAT CHEESE47 PAN-SEARED SEA SCALLOPS with GRAPEFRUIT, ENDIVE, and WALNUTS by Mark Franz48 BABY LIMA BEAN SALAD with SHRIMP and ALMONDS50 CAESAR SALAD with GREEN ONIONS and WALNUTS52 APPLE and RADICCHIO SALAD by Bradley Ogden54 ROASTED SWEET CORN SALAD56 DIAMOND WALDORF SALAD57