Recipes from a Very Small Island

RECIPES FROM A VERY SMALL ISLANDS\ \ By LINDA GREENLAW MARTHA GREENLAW \ HYPERION\ Copyright © 2005 Linda and Martha Greenlaw\ All right reserved.\ ISBN: 1-4013-0073-1 \ \ \ Chapter One\ BEGINNINGS \ DICK'S AMAZING STUFFED CLAMS CRANBERRY-ORANGE JELL-O SHOTS MAINE SHRIMP REMOULADE ROBINSON COVE CRAB SPREAD HOT CRAB AND JALAPENO DIP CRAB MADELEINES MUSSELS AU GRATIN PENOBSCOT BAY CLAM DIP MUSSELS ON THE HALF-SHELL WITH TWO ASIAN SAUCES WHISKEY FRUIT PUNCH WHALER'S TODDY SWEET AND SPICY ROASTED NUTS MUSHROOM TURNOVERS WALNUT SALAD IN ENDIVE WIMPY SUSHI FOR THOSE WITH AN AVERSION TO RAW FISH DARK AND STORMY STEPHANIE'S HOLIDAY CHEESE BALL\ DICK'S AMAZING STUFFED CLAMS\ ONE OF OUR FAVORITE ISLAND SUMMER ACTIVITIES is clam digging. We gather our clam hoes and clam roller (basket), drive over to the east side of the island, and walk out to the flats at Old Rich's Cove. Keeping our fingers crossed that the wind continues to blow the mosquitoes away, we proceed to happily dig ourselves a mess of clams. My good friend Dick Ames shared this recipe with me and love it because it's so full of good clam and sausage flavor. mg\ INGREDIENTS\ 20 QUAHOG CLAMS, AT LEAST 3 INCHES IN DIAMETER, OR 2 CUPS CHOPPED FRESH OR CANNED HARD-SHELL CLAMS, JUICES RESERVED\ 12 OUNCES ITALIAN SAUSAGE (COMBINATION OF SWEET AND HOT), REMOVED FROM CASINGS AND CRUMBLED\ 8 OUNCES CHORIZO SAUSAGE, ANY CASINGS REMOVED\ 8 TABLESPOONS (1 STICK) UNSALTED BUTTER\ 1 CUP FINELY DICED YELLOW ONION\ 1/2 CUP FINELY DICED GREEN BELL PEPPER\ 1/2 CUP FINELY DICED CELERY\ 3 CUPS LIGHTLY SEASONED CRUSHED BREAD STUFFING MIX, PLUS ADDITIONAL IF NECESSARY (SEE NOTES)\ AT LEAST 1/2 CUP RESERVED CLAM BROTH OR DRAINED CLAM JUICES\ MAKES 35 TO 40 STUFFED CLAMS\ 1. If using clams in the shell, rinse them several times until free of any sand and put in a large saucepan. Add cold water to a depth of 2 inches. Cover the pan tightly and steam over high heat for 4 to 5 minutes, or until the clams open. Drain the clams and discard any that do not open. Reserve the steaming liquid.\ 2. Let the clams cool slightly, then remove the meat from the shells. Reserve the clamshells. 3. Transfer the clam meat to a food processor fitted with the metal blade and pulse until chopped. (If using purchased chopped clams, chop them finer in the food processor.)\ 4. In a large, preferably nonstick skillet, brown the Italian sausage over medium heat, breaking up with a wooden spoon into small chunks, about 10 minutes. Cut the chorizo into 1/2-inch lengths and pulse in a food processor until finely chopped. Add the chorizo to the skillet and cook, stirring, for another 3 minutes. Scrape the sausage into a bowl, leaving the drippings in the pan.\ 5. Add the butter to the skillet and melt over medium-high heat. Add the onion, pepper, and celery and cook, stirring, for about 5 minutes, or until the vegetables soften. Add the 3 cups of stuffing mix, the chopped clams, the cooked sausage, and 1/2 cup reserved clam broth or juice. Use a large spoon or your hands to mix well, adding more bread crumbs or liquid as necessary to make a mixture that holds together when squeezed.\ 6. Lightly pack the clamshells with stuffing and place on baking sheets. Any leftover stuffing can be frozen. (Clams can be made a day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)\ 7. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.\ 8. Cover the baking sheets with foil and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the foil and continue to bake until the stuffing is lightly browned, 10 to 20 more minutes.\ Notes\ I use Pepperidge Farm stuffing mix for the bread crumbs.\ You will need some clamshells for this dish. I have a bunch that I save from year to year just so I'll have them for stuffed clams.\ If you're not starting with fresh clams in the shell, you can use a pint of chopped fresh hard-shell clams in juice that are sold in the seafood department of most supermarkets.\ CRANBERRY-ORANGE JELL-O SHOTS\ OUR EDITOR DEMANDED THAT put this recipe in the book and gave us the following reason: "Years ago, when I visited you for the first time on Isle au Haut and stepped off the mailboat, I wasn't quite sure what I had gotten myself into. I was going to spend four days on an island with an author I didn't yet know well and her entire extended family. And there you all were, on the dock, greeting me with trays of Jell-O shots-and instantly I became part of this great extended family. So Jell-O shots will always symbolize for me Greenlaw hospitality. And that's why, even though they aren't really authentic Maine cuisine, I insist they be in this book." lg\ INGREDIENTS\ ONE 3-OUNCE PACKAGE CRANBERRY GELATIN\ 1 CUP ORANGE VODKA OR 1/2 CUP ORANGE VODKA AND 1/2 CUP RUM\ MAKES 20\ Pour the gelatin into a large bowl. Add 1 cup boiling water and stir until the gelatin dissolves. Stir in the vodka (or vodka and rum) and divide among twenty 1-ounce disposable paper cups. Refrigerate until firm, 2 to 4 hours.\ MAINE SHRIMP REMOULADE\ WHEN SMALL MAINE SHRIMP are in season in the winter I use them in all kinds of ways. This is a wonderful first course. The sauce is simple, delicious, and can be made ahead, and it makes a very pretty presentation. mg\ REMOULADE SAUCE\ 2 CUPS MAYONNAISE\ 1 GARLIC CLOVE, MINCED OR PUT THROUGH A PRESS\ 1 HARD-COOKED EGG, CHOPPED\ 2 TABLESPOONS DRAINED CAPERS\ 1 TABLESPOON DIJON MUSTARD\ 1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH TARRAGON OR 1 TEASPOON DRIED\ 1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED FRESH CHERVIL OR 1 TEASPOON DRIED\ 1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED PARSLEY\ SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER\ SALAD\ 2 POUNDS MAINE SHRIMP (SEE NOTE)\ SHREDDED ROMAINE OR ICEBERG LETTUCE\ PARSLEY OR OTHER HERB SPRIGS\ SERVES 6 TO 8 AS A FIRST COURSE\ 1. Make the sauce. In a large bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, garlic, chopped egg, capers, mustard, tarragon, chervil, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.\ 2. For the shrimp, bring a large pot of salted water to the boil. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring once or twice, for about 2 minutes, until the shrimp turn pink. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a large bowl of ice water. Drain, peel off the shells, and remove any black veins. Chill until ready to use, up to 12 hours.\ 3. When ready to serve, line a large serving platter or individual plates with lettuce. Arrange the shrimp on the lettuce, spoon the sauce over the shrimp, garnish with herb sprigs, and serve.\ Note\ You can also buy shrimp already shelled, deveined, and/or cooked.\ Any other type of shrimp can substitute for small Maine shrimp.\ ROBINSON COVE CRAB SPREAD\ ROBINSON COVE, named for my husband's family, is on the west side of Isle au Haut. When Jim was a boy he spent all of his summers at the old family homestead in the cove with his parents, sister, and three brothers. Mattie, Jim's mother, often made this simple and utterly delicious crab spread. I like it because it really showcases our sweet local crabmeat. mg\ INGREDIENTS\ 12 OUNCES FRESH CRABMEAT, PICKED OVER\ 3/4 CUP REGULAR OR REDUCED-FACT MAYONNAISE\ 1/4 CUP SNIPPED CHIVES (SEE NOTE)\ 3 TABLESPOONS LEMON JUICE\ 2 TABLESPOONS PREPARED HORSERADISH\ SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER\ ASSORTED DELICATE CRACKERS OR SMALL SLICES OF BREAD\ SERVES 6 TO 8 AS AN HORS D'OEUVRE\ 1. In a medium-sized bowl, combine the crabmeat with the mayonnaise, chives, lemon juice, and horseradish. Mix well with a large fork to break up any larger chunks of crabmeat. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Refrigerate for up to 6 hours.\ 2. Serve in a bowl surrounded by crackers.\ Note\ If chives are unavailable, substitute finely chopped scallion.\ HOT CRAB AND JALAPENO DIP\ I CAN'T EVEN SAY THE WORD jalapeno without my eyes watering. But my son-in-law Ben adores spicy food-the hotter the better-so I made this hot crab and jalapeno dip one night with him in mind. So what does he do when I put it out on the table but head for the refrigerator to get some Tabasco sauce! By the time he polished off most of the dip I think we saw steam coming out of his ears. Personally, it's plenty hot enough for me (and probably for most) just the way it is. mg\ INGREDIENTS\ 1/3 CUP SLICED ALMONDS\ 2 TABLESPOONS VEGETABLE OIL\ 1 LARGE BELL PEPPER, CHOPPED MEDIUM-FINE\ 1 1/2 TO 2 CUPS MAYONNAISE\ 1 CUP GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE\ TWO 6-OUNCE JARS MARINATED ARTICHOKES, DRAINED AND CHOPPED FINE\ 1/2 CUP THINLY SLICED SCALLIONS\ 3 FRESH OR PICKLED JALAPENO PEPPERS, SEEDED AND MINCED (SEE NOTE)\ 4 TEASPOONS WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE\ 2 TEASPOONS LEMON JUICE\ 1 TEASPOON CELERY SALT\ 1 POUND FRESH CRABMEAT, PICKED OVER\ ASSORTED CRACKERS\ SERVES ABOUT 10 AS AN HORS D'OEUVRE 1. In a medium skillet, toast the almonds over medium heat, stirring frequently, until one shade darker, 3 to 4 minutes. Remove and set aside.\ 2. In the same skillet, heat the oil. Add the red pepper and cook over medium-high heat, stirring frequently, until it begins to soften. Scrape into a large bowl.\ 3. Add 1 1/2 cups of the mayonnaise, the cheese, chopped artichokes, scallions, jalapenos, Worcestershire, lemon juice, and celery salt. Stir well to combine. Add the crabmeat and stir gently so as not to break up the crab chunks too much. If the mixture is too dry, stir in the additional 1/2 cup mayonnaise.\ 4. Butter an attractive ovenproof dish, transfer the crab mixture to it, and sprinkle with the toasted almonds. (The dish can be made up to 12 hours ahead and refrigerated. Return to room temperature before baking.)\ 5. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.\ 6. Bake the crab dip, uncovered, until the mixture is hot and bubbly, 20 to 30 minutes. Spread on crackers to serve.\ Note\ Chopping jalapeno peppers can be seriously irritating to the eyes. Wash your hands thoroughly afterwards or wear rubber gloves when working with them. If you want a spicier dip, mince the jalapeno seeds and add to the mixture.\ CRAB MADELEINES\ THESE ARE A TRULY WONDERFUL AND very impressive hors d'oeuvre, but you do need French madeleine tins in order to make them. The molds, which you can find at specialty gourmet shops, are similar to muffin tins, but the pockets are in the shape of pretty scallop shells. mg\ INGREDIENTS\ 2 TABLESPOONS CLARIFIED BUTTER (SEE NOTE)\ 1/2 CUP CAKE FLOUR\ 1/4 TEASPOON SALT\ 1/8 TEASPOON WHITE PEPPER\ 1/8 TEASPOON CAYENNE PEPPER\ 2 LARGE EGGS\ 6 TABLESPOON GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE\ 6 OUNCES FRESH CRABMEAT (1 CUP), PICKED OVER AND FLAKED FINE\ 3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER, MELTED\ 2 TEASPOONS LEMON JUICE\ CITRUS TARTAR SAUCE (PAGE 90).\ REMOULADE SAUCE (PAGE 23), OR SALSA\ SERVES 5 TO 8 (ABOUT 20 MADELEINES\ 1. Brush the pockets of the madeleine tins thoroughly with the clarified butter. Refrigerate while making the batter. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.\ 2. In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, white pepper, and cayenne and set aside.\ 3. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, beat the eggs on high speed until they are thick and pale yellow, about 2 minutes. Add the cheese and beat for 1 minute. Beat in the crabmeat.\ 4. Sprinkle the flour mixture over the egg mixture and whisk in gently but thoroughly, alternating with the melted butter. Stir in the lemon juice.\ 5. Spoon the batter into the madeleine tins, filling about three-quarters full. Bake in the preheated oven until golden brown and springy to the touch, 18 to 20 minutes. Unmold onto a rack to cool, loosening with the point of a small knife if necessary. Cool the molds, wipe clean, rebutter them, and repeat with the remaining batter. (These can be made a day ahead and stored, well wrapped, in the refrigerator. Arrange on a baking sheet and reheat in a 375-degree oven for about 5 minutes before serving.)\ 6. Serve with your favorite dipping sauce.\ Note\ To clarify butter, melt the butter and pour the clear yellow liquid off the top into a small bowl, leaving the milky residue behind. Using the clear liquid to butter the molds helps prevent the madeleines from sticking.\ MUSSELS AU GRATIN\ AT LOW TIDE WE CAN PICK MUSSELS off the rocks and ledges in front of our house. Although these wild mussels are free, they do require a bit of work. You must first soak them in several changes of cold water, pull off their wiry beards, and scrub the shells. Our friend Dave Hiltz has been cultivating mussels that hang on ropes on his float in the harbor, and since these farmed mussels have never touched the sandy/muddy bottom they require little cleaning or scrubbing. This is a great way to serve them. mg\ INGREDIENTS\ 3 POUNDS MUSSELS, SCRUBBED AND DEBEARDED (SEE HEADNOTE)\ 1 CUP WHITE WINE\ 1/2 CUP (1 STICK) UNSALTED BUTTER, MELTED\ 1/2 CUP BREADED CRUMBS\ 1/2 CUP GRATED PARMESAN CHEESE\ 3 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED PARSLEY\ 1 GARLIC CLOVE, CRUSHED IN A PRESS OR MINCED\ 1/2 TEASPOON FRESHLY GROUND BLACK PEPPER\ SERVES 6 AS AN HORS D'OEUVRE\ 1. Place the mussels in a large pot add the wine, and bring to a boil. Cover. reduce the heat to medium, and cool just until the mussels open, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on size. Lift the mussels out of the cooking liquid with a slotted spoon, transfer to a bowl, and reserve the cooking liquid. Discard the top shell of each of the mussels. If the mussels are small, place two in each remaining half shell; otherwise leave one per shell. Arrange on a rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with the melted butter.\ 2. In a small bowl, combine the crumbs, Parmesan, parsley, garlic, and pepper and sprinkle the mixture over the mussels. Drizzle with a little of the reserved cooking liquid. (The mussels can be prepared ahead to this point and refrigerated or held at cool room temperature for a couple of hours.\ 3. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.\ 4. Place the baking sheet in the oven and cook until the mussels are hot and bubbly, about 10 minutes. Turn the setting to broil and cook, about 5 inches from the heating element, until nicely browned on top, 1 to 2 minutes.\ PENOBSCOT BAY CLAM DIP\ WE BUILT OUR RETIREMENT HOME on the island sixteen years ago, and when the last nail was pounded in we put up a notice in the town post office inviting all to an open house on the following Saturday. Everyone on the island loves a party, and eighty neighbors showed up, including kids and dogs! We ate, drank, and talked the afternoon away. One of the items on the buffet was this clam dip and I wrapped the loaf of bread in a red bandanna, which made it look very festive. Our friend and fellow lobsterman Greg Runge stood right next to that clam dip for most of the afternoon! mg\ INGREDIENTS\ 1 LARGE ROUND LOAF CRUSTY FRESH BREAD (ABOUT 24 OUNCES)\ TWO 8-OUNCE PACKAGES CREAM CHEESE, SOFTENED\ 1 1/2 CUP MINCED CLAMS, 1/4 CUP JUICE RESERVED\ 2 TABLESPOONS GRATED ONION\ 2 TABLESPOONS BEER (OPTIONAL)\ 2 TEASPOONS WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE\ 2 TEASPOON LEMON JUICE\ 1 TEASPOON HOT PEPPER SAUCE, OR TO TASTE\ 1/2 TEASPOON SALT\ 1 TABLESPOON CHOPPED PARSLEY\ RAW VEGETABLES FOR DIPPING, SUCH AS BABY CARROTS, GRAPE TOMATOES, PEPPERS STRIPS, CELERY STICKS\ SERVES 12 OR MORE AS AN HORS D'OEUVRE\ 1. With a sharp knife, slice the top off the bread and set aside. Hollow out the loaf, leaving about a 1-inch-thick shell.\ 2. In a large bowl, beat the cream cheese with the clams, onion, optional beer, Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, hot pepper sauce, salt, and reserved clam juice.\ 3. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Cut two long sheets of aluminum foil and crisscross them on a baking sheet. Center the hollowed loaf on the foil, fill with the clam mixture, and place the top on the bread. Wrap in foil.\ 4. Bake for 3 hours to blend the flavors and until the dip is piping hot. Remove the top, sprinkle the dip with parsley, and place on a large platter. Surround with raw vegetables for dipping.\ Notes\ You can use finely chopped fresh clams, or three 6 1/2-ounce cans of minced clams.\ The beer is a nice addition, but I only use it if the rest of the bottle is not going to go to waste!\ If you like, cut the removed bread into cubes, toast for about 20 minutes in the slow oven, and serve along with the vegetables for dipping.\ MUSSELS ON THE HALF-SHELL WITH TWO ASIAN SAUCES\ ALTHOUGH DAD INSISTS that he taught Mom how to fry an egg, his culinary activity, to the best of my knowledge, has been somewhat sketchy. I do, however, have fond memories of Dad in the kitchen preparing mussels. In those days, eating mussels was not fashionable, and I questioned my parents as to why we were not eating clams like normal people. Dad explained that he had been eating the island mussels since he was a boy and he happened to like them at least as much as clams. lg\ THAI CURRY SAUCE\ 1/2 CUP CANNED UNSWEETENED COCONUT MILK\ 1 TEASPOON THAT RED CURRY PASTE (SEE NOTE), OR MORE TO TASTE\ 3 TABLESPOONS FINELY DICED RED BELL PEPPER\ SOY BUTTER\ 4 TABLESPOONS (1/2 STICK) UNSALTED BUTTER\ 2 TABLESPOONS SOY SAUCE\ 3 TABLESPOONS FINELY MINCED SCALLIONS\ 2 POUNDS MUSSELS, SCRUBBED AND DEBEARDED\ SERVES 4 AS AN HORS D'OEUVRE\ 1. For the Thai Curry Sauce, combine the coconut milk and curry paste in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, whisking, and simmer, uncovered, over medium heat for about 5 minutes, until slightly reduced and thickened.\ 2. For the Soy Butter, combine the butter and soy sauce in a small saucepan. Simmer for about 2 minutes over medium heat until blended.\ 3. Place the mussels in a large pot. Add about 1/4 cup of water and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the heat to medium, and cook just until the shells open, 5 to 10 minutes, depending on size. Discard the top shell of each of the mussels and place a cooked mussel in each of the remaining shells. Arrange on two baking sheets. Spoon about a teaspoon of the Thai Curry Sauce over half the mussels; spoon the Soy Butter over the remaining half. (The mussels can be prepared ahead to this point and refrigerated or held at cool room temperature for a couple of hours.)\ 4. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.\ 5. Place the baking sheets in the oven and cook until the mussels are hot and the sauce is bubbly, about 10 minutes.\ 6. Sprinkle the Thai curry mussels with the minced red pepper, sprinkle the soy mussels with the chopped scallions, and serve.\ Note\ You'll find Thai curry paste in jars or sealed pouches in the Asian section of most supermarkets. It varies in intensity, so use according to your own taste.\ (Continues...)\ \ \ \ \ Excerpted from RECIPES FROM A VERY SMALL ISLANDS by LINDA GREENLAW MARTHA GREENLAW Copyright © 2005 by Linda and Martha Greenlaw.\ Excerpted by permission.\ All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.\ Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site. \ \

\ Publishers WeeklyLinda Greenlaw has proven herself to be a talented fisherwoman and author (The Hungry Ocean; The Lobster Chronicles; etc.). And now she shows that she's also a pretty good cook, with this book, co-written with her mother. The two share seafood-heavy recipes tested in the kitchens of their homes on Maine's Isle au Haut, as well as tales-mostly written by Linda-of life on the island (her essay on the improbabilities of pulling off a clambake is a riot). It's a charming collection. As one would expect, there are lots of recipes involving fish, lobster, crabs, blueberries and cranberries. But the Greenlaws present a nice variety of old and new (e.g., classic Island Lobster Rolls appear in the same chapter as unusual Wicked Good Lobster and Black Bean Chili). It's not just summer food, either: there are recipes for hearty dishes meant to help one through a New England winter (Mama's Maple-Flavored Baked Pea Beans; Bibo's Pumpkin Squares) as well as a chapter on meat and poultry. Most recipes are uncomplicated, and all evoke the character of the beautiful, rustic land from which they come. (July) Copyright 2005 Reed Business Information.\ \ \ \ \ Library JournalGreenlaw is the author of several best-selling books about her experiences as a swordfish boat captain and a lobster fisherman (her word), including The Lobster Chronicles: Life on a Very Small Island. Her mother, Martha, is the somewhat formidable matriarch of their extended family and a passionate cook. Most of the recipes here come from Martha, but Linda contributed 20 or so, along with entertaining essays about food and life on Isle au Haut (year-round population: about 45). The Greenlaws' food celebrates the natural bounty of their Maine island, and dishes are mostly organized by main ingredient, with chapter titles like "Fish That Swim in the Sea" and "Blueberries and Cranberries." Some of the mouth-watering recipes are homey, and some are not: Madeira-Saut ed Lobster, Salmon Cakes with Pea and Mint Sauce, Lemon-Glazed Blueberry Cupcakes. There are color photographs throughout of the recipes and island scenes. Strongly recommended. Copyright 2005 Reed Business Information.\ \