Sport Climbing: From Toprope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success
Winner of the 2010 National Outdoor Book Award for the Instructional Category \ Sport climbing can be a way to unwind after work, an excuse for a road trip with your buddies, or a month-long personal challenge to redpoint a difficult route. For many climbers, it's a bit of each. Whatever your motivation or level of skill you'll benefit from the tips and techniques included in Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success.\ Gear: choosing it, using it, and knowing...
Search in google:
Winner of the 2010 National Outdoor Book Award for the Instructional Category Sport climbing can be a way to unwind after work, an excuse for a road trip with your buddies, or a month-long personal challenge to redpoint a difficult route. For many climbers, it's a bit of each. Whatever your motivation or level of skill you'll benefit from the tips and techniques included in Sport Climbing: From Top Rope to Redpoint, Techniques for Climbing Success.Gear: choosing it, using it, and knowing when to retire itMoves: han holds, foot positioning, how to relax even in the middle of an overhanging roofFalling: overcoming the fear and regaining your, highpoint afterwardsBelaying: how the soft catch can make you a better climberProjecting: how to pick a route, work it, and stay motivatedRedpointing: how to break the route-down and then put it back together again in order to succeedAuthor Andrew Bisharat believes that sport climbing is the very best way to improve your ability as a rock climber. After trying out some of the methods offered in his book, you just might find yourself joining his crusade.
Acknowledgments 9Foreword Chris Sharma 11Introduction 15Chapter 1 Ethics, Style, and the Emergence of Sport Climbing 26The Beast Came from Trad 27Sport Climbing Is Neither!? 29Bolt Wars 31Wild Ethics 34The Next Generation 36Chapter 2 Free Yourself With Great Climbing Technique 42What Is "Good" Technique? 42Footwork 52Handholds 55Body Positions and Movement 59Chapter 3 Gear You Need: How to Choose It, Use it, and Keep It Safe 66Shoes 66Harness 68Ropes 70Quickdraws 72Belay Devices 74Helmet 76Chalkbag and Chalk 77Kneepads 77Stick Clip 79Useful Miscellaneous Items 80Clothing 80Setting Up Your Rig 81Chapter 4 Starting Out: Tying In, Top-roping, and Cleaning an Anchor 84How It Works 84Kiss 86The Perfect Knot: How to Tie In 86How to Top-rope 92Getting Lowered 93Types of Anchors 93How to Go In Direct 95Cleaning an Anchor 97Chapter 5 Taking the Sharp End: Leading a Sport Climb 104Anatomy of a Sport Climb 105The Real Deal: Out of the Gym and Out to the Crag 107The Big Leagues: From Bouldering to Sport Climbing 110A New Direction: Going from Trad to Sport 110Moving from Top-roping to Leading 111Commanding Language: How to Talk to Your Belayer 112The Leading Primer 115Racking Quickdraws on Your Harness 115Clipping Quickdraws to Bolts 116Clipping the Rope to the Quickdraw 119ABC's of the Z-clip 122Managing the Rope as You Lead 122Clipping Quickdraws to the Anchor 123Chapter 6 The Art of Falling 128Taking the Whipper 101 130When It's Not Okay to Fall 131Mastering the Failing Mentality 132Regaining Your HighPoint After a Fall 136Chapter 7 Advanced Ropework Techniques for Leading and Cleaning 146Stick Clipping 147On Route: Clipping Up 152Cleaning a Route: Retrieving Quickdraws 158So, Are You Ready to Lead? 164Chapter 8 Great Belaying 168Top-rope vs. Lead Belay 169Loading an ATC 171Loading a Grigri 171Top-rope Belaying with an ATC or Grigri 172Lead Belaying with an ATC 176Lead Belaying with a Grigri 178Situational Techniques for Great Lead Belaying 182Giving a Soft Catch 186Chapter 9 Onsighting: Strategies for Success 192Anatomy of an Onsight 193Sending Sight-Unseen 195Flashing 199The Elements of Style 200Chapter 10 Redpointing: Techniques for Sending 204The Right Temperament 204Always Learn and Make Progress 205Break It Down 206Early Attempts 206Technique 207Going In Direct 208Making Links 209"Work" the Rests 211Highs and Lows 212The One Hang 218Warming Up for the Redpoint 219More Tips for Redpointing Success 220Chapter 11 A Day at the Crags 224Warm-ups 225Crag Etiquette: The Queue and Working the Warm-up 225What Kind of Day Is It Going to Be? 226Warming Down 227How to Choose a Project 228Motivation 229Crag Ethics 230Where to Go: The Best Sport-Climbing Areas and Crags 234United States 234International Flavor 240Glossary 244Rating Comparison Chart for Sport Climbing 248Index 249
