Wearing Wealth and Styling Identity: Tapis from Lampung, South Sumatra, Indonesia
Located between the two maritime routes connecing East and West Asia, Sumatra, the fabled Isle of Gold, was for centuries the source for much of the world's pepper. In the southern tip of Sumatra, the peoples of Lampung, or "Pepperland," poured the profits of their trade into ceremonial materials and adornments. The ornate tubular sarongs known as tapis were hand-woven from cotton and silk threads, colored with ancestral dye recipes, embellished with gold- and silver-wrapped threads,...
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Discover the cultural iconography of these extraordinary textiles and how tapis garments exemplify the social station and clan identity of the women of South Sumatra
Foreword - Brian P. Kennedy Acknowledgments Introduction - Mise en Scene TAPIS AS TRIBUTE: ANCIENT ORIGINS AND COSMOPOLITAN REFLECTIONS Lampung Province, Sumatra Early Art and Aesthetics Textiles as Artistic Commodities with Commercial and Political Networks Tapis as High-Value Textile Tributes and Gifts of Prestige Tapis as Signifier: Past and Recent Past MATERIALS AND TECHNIQUES OF TAPIS CREATION Tapis Construction Secondary Embellishments Applique and Associated Additions Cermuk: Specialty Applique of Mirrors or Mica Cucuk: Couching of Gold, Silver, and Other Materials Dyestuffs Ikat and Tapis Inuh Suji, Sulam: Embroidery of Bast, Cotton, and Silk Supplementary Weft and Needleweaving Unusual Omissions TAPIS IN CONTEXT AND COMMUNITIES Ancient Motifs Language Adat Margas One Marga with Fifteen Hundred Years of History Weddings Internal and External Models Tapes, Tapesarassas, Taffatsjelas, Tape Chinde . . . and Tapis?Pepperland Some Political and Tapis Distinctions American Interests Personal Not Pepper Adornments Weaving and Unweaving COLLECTIBLE, ART GENRE, COMMODITY, AND ICON Historical Backup Colonial Collecting Modernity and New Visions of Tapis Commodification of Tapis Tapis Business: Bridal Traditions and Beauty Pageants Pepperland Has Become Tapis Land Siger, a Local Symbol of Hegemony Tapis and Identity VISUALIZING POWER AND WEALTH Second Skins: Cultural Constructions Art Composed of Cloth Trade Wealth Iconography Conclusion Notes Selected Bibliography Glossary Index
