A Chef's Tale: A Memoir of Food, France, and America
The embodiment of the art and pleasure of French cookery, Pierre Franey (1921–96) was one of the most influential and beloved of America’s culinary figures. Before creating his “60-Minute Gourmet” column in the New York Times, writing his celebrated cookbooks, and entering our homes via television, Franey presided over the cuisine at two of the greatest French restaurants in America: the legendary Le Pavillon, then La Côte Basque. With style, charm, and affection for his native France...
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The embodiment of the art and pleasure of French cookery, Pierre Franey (1921–96) was one of the most influential and beloved of America’s culinary figures. Before creating his “60-Minute Gourmet” column in the New York Times, writing his celebrated cookbooks, and entering our homes via television, Franey presided over the cuisine at two of the greatest French restaurants in America: the legendary Le Pavillon, then La Côte Basque. With style, charm, and affection for his native France and adopted America, Franey takes us into his life in the world of food, interweaving his story with irresistible recipes and, here and there, impulsively giving away a chef’s secrets. He takes us into his childhood in Burgundy, where the bountiful produce and the high respect accorded to the preparation of food grounded Franey in a tradition that would serve him well when he began his apprenticeship at age fourteen in Paris restaurants. In A Chef’s Tale, Franey relives the days of America’s French food revolution and adds immeasurably to our sophistication about the great world of French cooking—and about cooking itself. Publishers Weekly Famed as executive chef of New York City's Le Pavillon restaurant in its 1950s heyday, and noted for his ``60-Minute Gourmet'' New York Times columns and cookbooks, Franey was raised in Burgundy and, at age 14, in 1934, began his classical chef's training in Paris's Drouant restaurant. Occupying the first half of the volume, Franey's memoir, covering his 1939 arrival in America to cook at the World's Fair, his war experiences as a rifleman in the U.S. Army, his sometimes stormy relationships with colleagues--including Henri Soule and Craig Claiborne--is written, with the help of food writer Flaste, in charmingly courtly prose. Allusions found throughout the narrative refer to fondly recalled traditional recipes, many of which appear in updated form in the second half of the book, where he was assisted by restaurant critic Miller. With characteristic respect for both the food and the home cook, Franey offers recipes for such basics as fish broth, Coq au Vin and Creme Brulee and more elegant treatments such as Lobster Pavillon and Quenelles de Brochet Lyonnaise. This is an enchanting memoir and a worthy collection of recipes. Photos. BOMC HomeStyle alternate (Apr.)
Introduction Eugenia Bone v\ Acknowledgments xvii\ 1 Homecoming 3\ 2 Reverence and the River 17\ 3 Paris: From the Bottom Up 35\ 4 France Is Fading 57\ 5 Innocents in New York 67\ 6 War 85\ 7 Yes or No: The Army 99\ 8 Soulé and Me 107\ 9 My Own Column 127\ Epilogue: Cooking with Friends 135\ Recipes 143\ Index 251
\ Booklist“In these memoirs, legendary chef Pierre Franey reminisces over a rich life, placing an emphasis on hard work, playfulness, and great taste.”—Booklist\ \ \ \ \ Andre Soltner"I was thrilled to read A Chef's Tale, and to learn more about Mr. Franey's brilliant career. For me and our generation of French American chefs, he was our idol. Not only is he a great chef, but as his book shows, a very special man."\ -André Soltner, French Culinary Institute, New York\ \ \ \ \ Jacques Pepin"Pierre Franey's memoir is very close to my heart. He has been a mentor and an inspiration to me. His recollections are truly a history of the way food has evolved in America during the last quarter century."\ \ \ \ \ Sirio Maccioni"A wonderful book. A tale of a great chef and a wonderful man."\ -Sirio Maccioni, Le Cirque\ \ \ \ \ \ \ Andr Soltner“I was thrilled to read A Chef’s Tale, and to learn more about Mr. Franey’s brilliant career. For me and our generation of French American chefs, he was our idol. Not only is he a great chef, but as his book shows, a very special man.”—André Soltner, French Culinary Institute, New York\ \ \ \ \ \ Jacques Ppin“Pierre Franey’s memoir is very close to my heart. He has been a mentor and an inspiration to me. His recollections are truly a history of the way food has evolved in America during the last quarter century.”—Jacques Pépin\ \ \ \ \ \ Sirio Maccioni“A wonderful book. A tale of a great chef and a wonderful man.”—Sirio Maccioni, Le Cirque\ \ \ \ \ Andr� Soltner“I was thrilled to read A Chef’s Tale, and to learn more about Mr. Franey’s brilliant career. For me and our generation of French American chefs, he was our idol. Not only is he a great chef, but as his book shows, a very special man.”—André Soltner, French Culinary Institute, New York\ \ \ \ \ Jacques P�pin“Pierre Franey’s memoir is very close to my heart. He has been a mentor and an inspiration to me. His recollections are truly a history of the way food has evolved in America during the last quarter century.”—Jacques Pépin\ \ \ \ \ Publishers WeeklyFamed as executive chef of New York City's Le Pavillon restaurant in its 1950s heyday, and noted for his ``60-Minute Gourmet'' New York Times columns and cookbooks, Franey was raised in Burgundy and, at age 14, in 1934, began his classical chef's training in Paris's Drouant restaurant. Occupying the first half of the volume, Franey's memoir, covering his 1939 arrival in America to cook at the World's Fair, his war experiences as a rifleman in the U.S. Army, his sometimes stormy relationships with colleagues--including Henri Soule and Craig Claiborne--is written, with the help of food writer Flaste, in charmingly courtly prose. Allusions found throughout the narrative refer to fondly recalled traditional recipes, many of which appear in updated form in the second half of the book, where he was assisted by restaurant critic Miller. With characteristic respect for both the food and the home cook, Franey offers recipes for such basics as fish broth, Coq au Vin and Creme Brulee and more elegant treatments such as Lobster Pavillon and Quenelles de Brochet Lyonnaise. This is an enchanting memoir and a worthy collection of recipes. Photos. BOMC HomeStyle alternate Apr.\ \ \ \ \ Library JournalFraney is best known as ``the Sixty-Minute Gourmet,'' but he has also been a top New York chef at the legendary Le Pavillon and other restaurants, Craig Claiborne's long-time collaborator at the New York Times , and the author or coauthor of a dozen cookbooks most recently, Pierre Franey's Cooking in America , LJ 4/15/92. His memoir with recipes covers his early life in France, cooking at the 1939 World's Fair as one of a crew that was introducing French food to Americans, and succeeding career highlights; the sections on his childhood seem somewhat stilted, but once he enters the culinary scene the reminiscences become more vivid. Many of the 100 recipes he includes are real French classics, often from the menu at Le Pavillon, although there are some updated or more recent dishes as well. Franey recently stopped writing his newspaper column, to the disappointment of many readers; his numerous fans ensure demand for his newest book. Previewed in Prepub Alert, LJ 12/93.\ \
